Another Wicked Way-back Wednesday….a 17th century bill of fare for the month of August. Notice – Neither a hot dog nor hamburger to be see; no ice cream or gelato or potato salad or ketchup or Popsicle, but it does start with melons ….. but after that it’s a little more unfamiliar.
A Bill of Fare for August.
All cantaloupes are musk melons, but not all musk melons are cantaloupes
1 Scotch collops of Veal.(COLLUPS: slices of meat, such as bacon. Randle Holme defines Scotch or Scots collups as thin, salted slices of mutton or beef, broiled and served with vinegar and butter. (Richard Bradley, 1736) Prospect Books: Glossery (this is the address – it doesn’t want to link for me – https://prospectbooks.co.uk/glossary/c)
2 Boil’d Breast of Mutton.
3 A Fricase of Pigeons.
4 A stewed Calves head.
Tête-à-tête de veau.
Credits: L. John Harris zester 2011
5 Four Goslings.(baby geese)
6 Four Caponets.(baby capons – which are rooster with their boy bits removed)
A Second Course.
1 Dotterel twelve, six larded
Dotterals – these could be the six larded…or not
2 Tarts Royal of Fruit.
An ear of wheat – not the wheat ear he means
Wheatear – yet another tiny, tasty bird
4 A Pye of Heath-Pouts.
5 Marinate Smelts.
6 Gammon of Bacon.
Cockles (French, not necessarily the same as East Sussex)
Jan Davidsz de Heen Still-life with Fruit and Ham 1648 – In my minds eye this is Robert May’s August table
A bill of Fare for July.
1 Pottage of Capon.
2 Boil’d Pigeons.
3 A hash of Caponets.
4 A Grand Sallet.
German School, 17th 17th Century German School A bowl of spinach and eggs and roasted quail with a pewter dish. The spinach with eggs is a more ordinary boiled salad – a grans salad is…grander.
5 A Fawn.
6 A Custard.
A Second Course.
1 Pease, of French Beans.
French beans are also known now as green bean..I think the pease of the beans are the little seeds within. This would make this dish extremely delicate and dainty!
2 Gulls four, two larded.
black legged kittiwake – gulls are also called mews or mouettes
3 Pewits eight, four larded.
Pewits are now more commonly called Northern lapwings
4 A quodling Tart green.
5 Portugal eggs, two sorts.
6 Buttered Brawn.
Selsey Cockles broil’d.
Ben Johson. Volpone. Act 1. Scene 2.
SIR POLITIQUE WOULD BEE:
“In oranges, musk-melons, and such like: sometimes in Colchester-oysters, and your Selsey-cockles.’
Selsey is in West Sussex – Colchester is in Essex – so this is shell fish coming from both sides of England.
He’s holding a gridiron, perhaps waiting to broil some cockles – can anyone translate the caption?
Robert May. The Accomplist Cook.